Finger strength is the single biggest lever in climbing — and the two most common ways to build it are a hangboard (fixed to a wall, you hang from it) and a training block (handheld, you lift weight with it). They sound similar. They train the same tissue. But they load your fingers in very different ways, and the right pick depends on where you are in your climbing.
Here's an honest comparison so you buy the one that actually fits.
What each one is
A hangboard (or fingerboard) mounts above a doorway. You hang your bodyweight from edges of different depths to load your fingers. Classic, effective, and the standard for decades.
A training block is a handheld block with edges and pinches. You attach it to a weight or band and lift — "no-hangs" or "block pulls." Your fingers do the same isometric work, but your feet stay on the ground and you control the load with a number, not your bodyweight.
How they compare
Loading and progression
This is the big one. On a hangboard, the minimum load is roughly your bodyweight (minus whatever you can offload with a pulley or band). For a newer or lighter climber, even the biggest edge can be too much — there's no easy way to start lighter.
A block lets you dial the exact weight, starting well below bodyweight and adding 2.5 lb at a time. That makes progression precise and beginner-friendly. In short: the block offers finer control over starting load (you can begin below bodyweight); the hangboard suits climbers loading at or above bodyweight.
Joint safety and scalability
Because you set the weight, a block lets you build tendon and pulley strength gradually — the safest way to train fingers, especially in your first year or two. A hangboard's minimum is closer to bodyweight unless you assist with a pulley or band, so it's harder to start light. In short: the block's adjustable load makes gradual, scalable progression easier to control.
Portability
A block fits in a chalk bucket. Warm up with it at the crag, train at a desk, take it on trips. A hangboard needs a doorway and a mount. In short: the block is portable; the hangboard is fixed in place.
Grip variety
A good hangboard offers many holds — edges, pockets, slopers — in one board. A block covers edges and pinches. If you want to train slopers and deep pockets specifically, a hangboard (or a premium multi-feature block) does more. In short: a hangboard offers more grip types in one unit; a block covers edges and pinches.
Durability and feel
Machined wood boards and premium wood blocks have a gorgeous, grippy texture and last forever. A 3D-printed block is lighter on the wallet and plenty durable for no-hangs, with crisp, consistent edges. In short: wood tools cost more and last indefinitely; a 3D-printed block is the lower-cost option — see the price table.
Price and pick
| Tool | Price* | Type | Portable | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sesh 3D-Printed Training Block | $20 | Handheld block | ✅ | Affordable, scalable, portable finger training |
| Tension The Block | ~$59 | Machined wood block | ✅ | Premium wood feel, many edges/pinches |
| Beastmaker 2000 | ~$159 (£99.50 UK) | Wood hangboard | ❌ | Strong climbers, max two-hand hangs |
*Prices approximate, USD, as of June 2026 — check current pricing before you buy.
In short: the wood tools (Tension Block, Beastmaker) cost more and offer a premium feel and long lifespan; a 3D-printed block is the lower-cost, portable option. All three load the fingers the same way.
The Sesh 3D-Printed Training Block is the $20 option here: scalable no-hang loading, edges and pinches, and small enough to fit in a chalk bucket.
How to train with a block (the basics)
- Warm up first — pulse-raise, then light block lifts before anything hard.
- Max-effort no-hangs: pick an edge (start ~20 mm), lift to a hard-but-controlled load, hold 7–10 seconds, rest 2–3 minutes, repeat 4–5 times.
- Add load slowly — 2.5–5 lb when a session feels easy. Strength comes from consistency over months, not from maxing out today.
- 2–3 sessions a week, never on raw or tweaky fingers.
A real safety note
Fingers adapt slower than muscles. If you've climbed less than a year, build your base on the wall before loading fingers hard — climbing itself is finger training at first. Any sharp pain in a finger joint or the palm-side of a knuckle means stop. Train hard, but train patient; pulley injuries set you back months. This is general training info, not medical advice — see a physio for finger pain that persists.
FAQ
Can a training block replace a hangboard? For most climbers, yes — block pulls train the same finger strength with more control and less risk. Very strong climbers may still want a hangboard for max two-hand loads.
Do I need weights? You need a way to add resistance: a loading pin and plates, a kettlebell, a weight stack, or a resistance band to start. Many climbers begin with a band or a dumbbell.
Is a 3D-printed block strong enough? Yes — it's designed and tested for the loads of no-hang training. You're lifting with it, not hanging your whole body off a tiny edge.
See the Sesh 3D-Printed Training Block — $20, edges and pinches, portable no-hang loading.